Author: Motion Automotive

There is no simple answer to the question of how long a car battery will last, but it is possible to offer some generalizations based on decades of industry experience. To begin with, we know that the life of a car battery varies based on three key factors: time, heat, and vibration. Let’s take a closer look at each.

Time

Like people, car batteries age over time and have a finite lifespan. Even in ideal operating conditions, batteries gradually deteriorate until they can no longer provide enough power to start an engine. Automobile usage patterns also contribute to battery aging. Cars driven mostly on short trips may not allow the battery to fully recharge, and batteries in vehicles parked for extended periods naturally self-discharge. In both of these situations, using a maintenance charger Tender will keep the battery fully charged and extend its service life.

Heat

Heat facilitates the chemical reaction batteries use to generate electricity, but it also increases the rate of battery degradation. In cooler northern climates, a battery may last five years or longer, but in hot southern locales around three years is more typical. Batteries also live in a harsh underhood environment where temperatures can easily exceed 200 degrees Fahrenheit in hot weather. To combat this heat, automakers may mount the battery in an isolated area, install a heat shield over the battery, or relocate the battery outside the engine compartment, often under the back seat or trunk floor.

Vibration

The last key factor in battery life is vibration, which causes the physical breakdown of internal battery parts. To minimize the effects of vibration, special hold-down hardware secures batteries in place and prevents them from moving about. Missing or lose hold-downs can significantly shorten battery life.

Other Considerations

While less common than the factors above, a malfunctioning charging system will also reduce battery life. Persistent under- or over-charging accelerates battery aging. Some newer cars with absorbent glass mat (AGM) batteries require careful control of charging rates for maximum battery life, and the automaker may even alter the charging strategy as the battery ages. Finally, allowing any car battery to go completely dead will take a big chunk out of its lifespan, even if it can be recharged and put back in service.

Weak Battery Warning Signs

You may have a battery problem if the starter motor cranks the engine slowly or the Battery/Charging warning lamp is illuminated. Another weak battery indicator on older cars is dim incandescent headlights, particularly at idle. However, not every failing battery reveals itself through obvious symptoms.

To avoid being stranded by a battery problem, have the battery inspected at every oil change to make sure the cable connections are clean and tight, and the hold-down hardware is secure. Once a battery reaches three years of age, have it tested annually. The test will identify if the battery has deteriorated to the point where replacement is recommended to prevent an unexpected failure.

Battery Selection Tips

There is no “one-size-fits-all” battery suitable for every car. The battery type, physical size, terminal configuration, and cold cranking amps (CCA) or amp-hour (Ah) rating are all important factors that ensure the proper fit and function of a battery. Installing an incorrect battery can adversely affect the electrical system of your vehicle, and cause major damage if the terminal locations create a short circuit with nearby components. If you are unsure about which battery to buy, ask your car mechanic or consult the vehicle owner’s manual.

Battery Type

Batteries are either conventional lead-acid or the more advanced AGM design mentioned earlier. Most cars on the road today use conventional batteries, but some models use AGM batteries that highly spill-resistant and better able to handle repeated discharging and recharging, as occurs in cars that have engine stop-start systems to improve fuel economy. Because charging systems are often optimized for the battery type, we recommend always replacing a battery with the same type that came in the car from the factory.

Group Number

The group number, for example, Group 24, is an industry-standard that defines the battery’s physical size, its hold-down configuration, and the type and location of its terminals. Selecting a battery with the same group number as the original equipment battery will ensure a secure fit, adequate clearance, and no cable/terminal issues. It will also allow for the proper reinstallation of the important battery heat shield, where equipped.

Some imported vehicles use batteries that conform to European or Asian battery standards. In many cases, a standard group number battery will fit with minor or no modifications, but pay special attention to ensure that the installation does not pose any problems. Application guides are available where batteries are sold. In a limited number of cars, the vehicle design makes a factory replacement battery the only viable option.

Cold Cranking Amps Rating

The cold-cranking amps rating, for example, 650 CCA, is an industry-standard measure of how much electrical power a battery can provide at zero degrees Fahrenheit. Never confuse this rating with “cranking amps” (CA), a rating based on an easier test that produces inflated numbers. Some import automakers state battery power requirements using an amp-hour rating, for example, 78 Ah. This rating is based on the number of minutes a battery can provide a specified level of electrical current, typically 20 amperes.

To avoid electrical system problems and a visit to the repair shop, never install a battery with a CCA or Ah rating that is lower than that recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. A higher-rated battery will also work if it fits properly, but is usually unnecessary and may have a shorter service life in hot climates.

Conclusion

When your car needs a new battery, always purchase one from a high-volume seller with fresh stock. You do not want a battery that has already lost a good portion of its service life sitting on a shelf. Also, look for a battery with an extended full replacement warranty. Quality batteries offer free replacement for three or more years if there is a problem within that period. A warranty that enters a pro-rated replacement period sooner will require a partial payment to replace the battery once the full coverage term expires.

 Resources:https://www.aaa.com/

• 1 Get plenty of practice Like anything else, learning how to be a good driver takes lots of time behind the wheel practicing. There are things you’ll learn while driving that you just can’t get from reading, so it’s important to log plenty of time at the wheel. Before you get behind the wheel, you can start with a driving test tutorial, for tips on passing with flying colors. Check below how to drive expertly in the center of a lane and practice it today:

• 2 Know your car The car you’re using for your test should be familiar to you, and not one that you’re sitting in for the first time. You’ll want to know where the controls are for everything from the lights to the windshield wipers, so you aren’t frantically searching if it starts raining. The way each car’s brake and gas pedals react can be different, so knowing how sensitive these are can help you avoid breaking or accelerating too aggressively or too slowly.

• 3 Prepare and adapt to anything Whether it’s weather conditions, an ambulance coming down the road or any other situation that could happen, you should be mentally prepared to adapt and adjust accordingly. The only true way to do this is to get in those hours of practice driving, and trying to do so in a variety of weather conditions. Only getting out to drive on beautiful, sunny days will only work against you if your test lands on a rainy, overcast day. Check the following tips for driving in the rain and drive safely in every weather:

• 4 Pay attention to driving It sounds obvious enough, but it’s easy to get distracted by what the evaluator is doing. Trying to sneak a peek at what they’re writing down or their facial expressions is not a good idea if you’re hoping to walk out of there a licensed driver. Paying attention to the road, and what’s happening around you is the best way to ensure that whatever the examiner is writing down is positive – and you can read all of that once your test is over anyway. Leave everything else at the door, and give your full attention to the task at hand. Whether it’s schoolwork or other things happening in your life, it needs to be temporarily put to the back of your mind. Clear your school workload for the near future, so you aren’t worrying about how and when you’ll complete upcoming assignments. Online tools like Essayroo, Ukwritings, and Assignment help can provide you with quality writing assistance, so you can get your workload out of your head and focus on the road. And, if the stress of your driver’s test has muddled your clear thinking, some help from the resources at Academized and Boomessays can help you weed out any mistakes you may have made in grammar or the clarity of your writing.

• 5 DON’T Rush to get there Leave yourself plenty of time before your scheduled test, so you’re able to arrive and get yourself acquainted with the area. Getting there just on time may add to the stress you’re already feeling and could put you in panic-mode before your test even begins. If possible, booking a lesson right before your test can help you warm up and erase any jitters you may be feeling.
• 6 DON’T Tense up Staying relaxed is vital to driving well. You’ve got to have a clear mind, an awareness of what’s going on around you, and the ability to react to anything. When you’re nervous and tense, you aren’t able to think clearly and react accordingly. Positive Hypnosis has some great tips for dealing with nerves related to driving tests.

• 7 DON’T Forget the basics Nervousness can get the best of you, and in your worrying to remember the smallest details of the rules of the road, you may be overlooking the essentials. Checking your mirrors regularly is one of the most commonly forgotten things new drivers miss in their tests. Focused on the road ahead of them, they often neglect to check what’s behind or beside them. Here are the 10 most typical mistakes made by new drivers during their tests.

• 8 DON’T Be afraid to ask questions You want to appear as though you know exactly what you’re doing, but that doesn’t mean that if an instruction isn’t clear that you shouldn’t ask for clarification. If you don’t ask for clarification, the tester will undoubtedly believe you’ve heard and understood the instructions, so if you don’t do what they’ve asked, you could lose marks and possibly fail your test. Ask questions before your test date on the driving test tips thread at College Confidential. You can also get advice from those who have already taken the test, from Vinted. Those who have passed can share their tips for success, while those who have failed can pass along what they’ve learned to help you avoid the same fate ,Here is a short video guide to your driver’s test to ensure your success: (Source: https://driving-tests.org/beginner-drivers/driving-test-tips-students/)

Resources:

driving-tests.org

“InMotion Automotiveour business is to keep neighbors and communities’ cars at DALLAS, one of our services is an oil change for all cars and all models

our services are Speedy service with a smile and competitive pricing is the start, but our goal is to get you on the road, safe and assured for reliability.

Most automobiles use a form of automatic transmission called a hydraulic planetary automatic transmission, which is also used in a scaled-up version in some industrial and commercial equipment and heavy-duty vehicles.

According to Meineke, most automobiles use a form of automatic transmission called a hydraulic planetary automatic transmission, which is also used in a scaled-up version in some industrial and commercial equipment and heavy-duty vehicles. The friction clutch is replaced by fluid coupling and the system defines a set of gear ranges depending on the needs of the auto. When you put the vehicle in park, all the gears lock to prevent the car from rolling forward or backward.

A less common option is automated manual transmission (AMT). Sometimes called a semi-automatic transmission, this model pairs the clutches and gears of a manual transmission with a set of actuators, sensors, processors, and pneumatics. AMTs operates like an automatic while providing the affordability and fuel-saving benefits of a manual transmission. With this type of transmission, the driver can manually shift gears or opt for automatic shifting. Either way, he or she does not need to use the clutch, which is operated by a hydraulic system.

History of the Automatic Transmission

General Motors and REO both released semi-automatic vehicle transmissions in 1934. These models posed fewer challenges than the traditional manual transmission but still required the use of a clutch to change gears. The GM transmission was the first of its kind to use a hydraulically controlled planetary gearbox, allowing the gears to shift depending on the vehicle’s travel speed.

The planetary transmission was one of the most important developments on the road to a modern automatic transmission. Although GM was the first to use the version with hydraulic controls, this technology dates to a 1900 invention by Wilson-Pilcher. That innovation consisted of four forward gears on two trains that could be shifted with a single lever.

Operation of an Automatic Transmission

The most common type of automatic transmission uses hydraulic power to shift gears. According to How Stuff Works, this device combines a torque or fluid coupling converter with gearsets that provide the desired range of gears for the vehicle. The torque converter connects the engine to the transmission and uses pressurized fluid to transfer power to the gears. This apparatus replaces a manual friction clutch and lets the vehicle come to a complete stop without stalling.

Information from Art of Manliness depicts the operation of an automatic transmission. As the engine transmits power to the pump of the torque converter, the pump converts this power into transmission fluid that powers the turbine of the torque converter. This apparatus increases the power of the fluid and transmits even more power back to the turbine, which creates a vortex power rotation that spins the turbine and the attached central shaft. The power created by this rotation is then transmitted from the shaft to the transmission’s first planetary gear set.

This type of transmission has what is called hydraulic control. The transmission fluid is pressurized by an oil pump, which allows the speed to change depending on the vehicle’s speed, tire revolutions per minute, and other factors. The gear pump is placed between the planetary gearset and torque converter, where it pulls and pressurizes transmission fluid from a sump. The pump input leads directly to the housing of the torque converter attached to the flexplate of the engine. When the engine is not running, the transmission does not have the oil pressure needed to operate and thus the vehicle cannot be push-started.

The planetary gear train is a mechanical system in which the gears are connected with a set of bands and clutches. When the driver changes gears, the bands hold one gear still while rotating another to transmit torque from the engine and increase or decrease gears.

The different gears are sometimes called the sun gear, the ring gear, and the planetary gear. The arrangement of the gears determines how much power will flow from one gear to another and out to the drive train of the vehicle when you shift.

Gears of an Automatic Transmission

The gears of an automatic transmission include the following:

• According to How a Car Works, when you shift your vehicle into drive, you engage all available forward gear ratios. This means that the transmission can move between its full range of gears as needed. Six-speed automatic transmissions are the most common number of gears, but older cars and entry-level compact cars may still have either four or five automatic gears.
• The third gear either locks the transmission in third gear or limits it to the first, second, and third gear ratios. This provides the power and traction needed to go either uphill or downhill or to tow a boat, RV, or trailer. When the engine reaches a designated level of revolutions per minute (RPM), most vehicles automatically drop the third gear to keep the engine from harm.
• Second gear either locks the transmission in second gear or limits it to the first and second gear ratios. This gear is ideal for going uphill and downhill in slippery conditions as well as driving during ice, snow, and other types of inclement weather.
• First gear is used when you want to lock the transmission in first gear, although some vehicles will automatically switch out of this gear to protect the engine at a certain RPM. Like second and third gear, this gear is best used for towing, driving uphill or downhill, and when traveling during slippery, icy conditions.

Advantages of an Automatic Transmission

According to How Stuff Works, the biggest advantage of an automatic transmission is the ability to drive without the need for a clutch as is required with a manual transmission. Individuals with many disabilities can drive using an automatic since operation only requires two usable limbs.

The lack of a clutch also eliminates the need to pay attention to shifting manually and monitoring the tachometer to make the necessary shifts, which gives you more attention to focus on the task of driving.

Many drivers also find it easier to control an automatic transmission at low speeds than a manual transmission. The hydraulic automatic transmission creates a phenomenon called idle creep, which encourages the vehicle to move forward even when idling.

At the point when your vehicle’s check engine light enlightens your dashboard, it’s normally joined by a sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach. The light could be a minor issue, for example, a broken gas cap, or it could mean something more serious, for example, a failing motor. As a rule, it implies that you’ll be visiting the vehicle vendor to fix the issue and get the light turned off.

The check engine light — more formally known as the malfunction indicator lamp —  is a sign from the’s motor PC that something isn’t right

Check engine lights come in orange, yellow, or amber, depending on the manufacturer. If the light begins flashing, however, it indicates a more serious problem, such as a misfire that can quickly overheat the catalytic converter. These emissions devices operate at high temperatures to cut emissions but can pose a fire hazard if faulty.

The difference between illuminates and remain constantly illuminated light

If the check engine light illuminates, it will either blink or remain constantly illuminated, depending on the problem. A blinking light, or in some cars a red light instead of a yellow or orange light, indicates a problem that needs immediate attention. Either way, you should have the vehicle checked by a mechanic.

In late-model cars, a blinking light usually indicates an engine misfire so severe that unburned fuel is being dumped into the exhaust system, where it can quickly damage the catalytic converter, leading to an expensive repair. If that happens, you should reduce power and have the car or truck looked at as soon as possible.

If the light is steady, the problem is not an emergency, but you should schedule an appointment as soon as possible. Today’s automotive computers often try to compensate when there’s a problem, so you might not notice deterioration in performance, even though your fuel mileage might be suffering and your vehicle emitting unacceptable levels of hydrocarbons and other pollutants.

What to Do About the Check Engine Light

If the check motor light goes ahead, here are a few hints on what you ought to do:

1-Look for a serious problem that requires immediate attention.

Check your dashboard gauges and lights for indications of low oil pressure or overheating. These conditions mean you should pull over and shut off the engine as soon as you can find a safe place to do so. On some cars, a yellow check engine light means to investigate the problem, and a red one means stop right now.

Try tightening your gas cap. This can regularly tackle the problem.  Remember that it may take several trips before the light resets. A few vehicles have a different pointer that cautions of a free gas cap.

2-Reduce speed and load.

If the check engine light is blinking or you notice any serious performance problems, such as a loss of power, reduce your speed and try to reduce the demands on the engine. For instance, it would be a smart thought to quit towing a trailer.

Has the vehicle checked as quickly as time permits to forestall costly harm?

3-Use built-in diagnostic services, if available.

Many modern cars have integrated remote diagnostic capabilities, with the ability to report on trouble codes and schedule a service appointment. Today, many automakers—including Fiat Chrysler, Ford, Hyundai, Jaguar/Land Rover, and Volvo—support remote diagnostics and the ability to schedule a service appointment.

4-Utilize worked in symptomatic administrations, if accessible.

Numerous advanced vehicles have coordinated distant indicative capacities, with the capacity to give a difficult situation code and timetable an administration arrangement. Today, numerous automakers—including Fiat Chrysler, Ford, Hyundai, Jaguar/Land Rover, and Volvo—uphold far off diagnostics and the capacity to plan an administration arrangement.

Resources:consumerreports.org

Car problems are many and not always predictable, but Motion Automotive is ready to help you, in case there is any problem with your car, just call us on +1 972-780-8700

For many years, the State of Texas has required vehicle owners to have their cars and trucks checked for mechanical safety and reliability by a State certified facility & mechanic once every 6 months. Yes, twice a year. The state required a bi-annual vehicle inspection up until the early 1980s when it was finally changed to the once annual inspection we have today.

Pre-Inspection Check

Even if you’re not the mechanically inclined type, there are still a few things you ought to do to ensure your vehicle is prepared for its yearly State Inspection.

Lights:

Make sure all of your running lights, headlights, brake lights and turn signals are working. Replace any faulty bulbs where necessary and don’t forget to check the rear license plate lights!

Light Lenses:

Visually inspect your headlights for lens cracks, missing chips, or fogging. Excessive cloudiness (fogging) of your headlight lenses will cause your vehicle to fail the state inspection as it makes for unsafe operation on the road, especially in times of inclement weather. In other words, vehicles coming your way or crossing your path might have a hard time seeing you because of your foggy lenses. Try not to overlook them!

Your local auto parts stores sell “lens cleaning and polishing” kits. These will come with detailed instructions and are relatively easy to use. You can also find lots of how-tos on internet video sites like YouTube that can help build your DIY confidence. If you are unable or uninclined to do the work, then many local garages also offer this type of service. Your only other option is to replace them and depending on the make and model of your vehicle, that can be an expensive route to take.

Badly aimed headlights can also cause your vehicle to fail a state inspection. If approaching cars are flashing their brights off and on at you as you get close and your brights are not on, then it might be time to have your headlights adjusted.

Glass:

Visually check the entirety of your vehicle’s windows for cracks and large chips. This is especially significant for the front windshield, and it frequently endures the worst part of flying street garbage. The rule of thumb is that a chip smaller than a quarter is nothing to worry about. That is unless the damage goes all the way through the windshield. Chips can also spread, so if you have a chipped windshield, it is best to have the chip repaired by an automotive glass repair company. Heck! Some of them will even come to you! If the chips are too large, then replacement is your only option.

Mirrors:

Examine your outside and back view mirrors. On the off chance that they are loose, check whether you can fix them. If any are cloudy or delaminating, at that point they will probably be supplanted. Outside mirrors should also be free of cracks and chips. Repair or replace as necessary.

Wiper Blades:

Examine your front and (if prepared) back wiper edges. Search for indications of peeling, chipping, or dry rot. Replace them as necessary. If they appear in good condition, but leave streaks in wet weather, replace them. A good rule of thumb is to supplant them every year.

Tires:

Visually inspect your tires for proper inflation and excessive or uneven tread wear. The internet abounds with information that can help you determine if the wear you see is normal or an indicator of bigger problems. 

Related: DO I NEED TIRE CHANGE?

Brakes: 

Vehicle brakes wear at different intervals depending on the driver, vehicle use, parts used, etc. Consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual for manufacturer-recommended intervals for servicing your vehicle’s brake pads or shoes. If you sense there is a problem because of squealing, grinding sounds or the pedal travels excessively or feels spongy, then have them serviced as soon as you can. Waiting for “inspection day” will only result in delays or your vehicle being stuck with a rejection sticker.

Related: Warning: Don’t ignore to replace the brake pads

Emergency Brake:

Make sure it operates as well. The inspector will check it out for sure.

Suspension:

If you know how to safely jack up your vehicle and check the suspension linkage and parts for excessive wear, then, by all means, do so. Address any problems before you take it in for a state inspection. If jacking up your vehicle and moving around some likely dirty parts isn’t your thing, then think about how your automobile handles. Do you turn the steering wheel and the vehicle takes an instant or two before it catches up? Is there excessive wiggle or play in the steering wheel? Are your tires wearing unevenly or do they shake at higher speeds? Does the vehicle pull excessively in one direction?  If you answered yes or “sort of” to any of these questions, then it is probably time to take it in for a suspension check-up.

Shock/Strut Test:

Ok, this is an easy test. Bounce your vehicle up and down by hand. Good shocks and struts will rise and fall once. Worn out shocks and struts will allow the auto to bounce up and down a few times before stopping.

Interior:

The state inspector will have to get in your vehicle to remove the old sticker. This is typically where their inspection starts. They will check the steering column and driver’s seat for looseness, turn the lights off and on and check the signals and brake lights. They will check the wiper operation and visually inspect your mirrors. They will check the window operation, the defroster fan/blower operation, and blow the horn.

air fresheners you want to make a good impression and show that you are a responsible car owner when you take your vehicle in for inspection, remove all of the trash beforehand. Clean the windows and if it smells like a wet dog has been living in there, defunkify it with a deodorizer

Resource: mikeduman.com

In Motion Automotiveour business is to keep neighbors and communities’ cars a DALLAS , one of our services is an oil change for all cars and all models

our services are Speedy service with a smile and competitive pricing is the start, but our goal is to get you on the road, safe and assured for reliability.”

Driving in rain, whether a sprinkle or a heavy downpour, can be one of the most troublesome driving circumstances a driver experiences. Rainy conditions are directly associated with higher mishap rates. No matter what part of the country you live in, it is practically sure that you will be needed to drive your vehicle in the downpour eventually. Knowing how wet streets and reduced visibility affect the way your vehicle handles will help you drive safely in rainy conditions.

1.Double Check Your Car’s Equipment.

Make sure that your car’s equipment is in working order before encountering rainy weather. Check your headlights, tail lights, and windshield wipers to ensure that they will work efficiently when they are required. Also, check the tread of your vehicle’s tires. Balding tires can severely reduce traction on wet roadways.

2.Slow Down

Slow Down Not only should you adhere to the posted speed limit when driving in wet weather conditions, but you should also drive considerably slower than you normally would. Wet streets are risky. Your vehicle’s response time is much slower when it is raining. Reduced speed is imperative in rainy weather.

3.Turn On Your Headlights

Turn On Your Headlights Most states require drivers to turn on their vehicles’ lights while driving in rain. Even if it is only misting, turning on your vehicle’s headlights will increase both your own permeability and other drivers’ capacity to see your vehicle out and about.

4.Use Your Windshield Wipers

Use Your Windshield Wipers While this may seem like common sense, some people forget to turn on their windshield wipers in light rain. Most cars’ windshield wiper speed is adjustable to clear moisture from the glass in a light mist or a heavy downpour. There are also several

products available that can be sprayed or wiped onto the glass and claim to defer the collection of rainwater.

5.Clean of windshield

Clean the inside and outside of your windshield consistently. You need your windows as spotless as conceivable when those unexpected downpours emerge.

6.Keep up a safe distance

Keep up a safe distance between you and the car ahead. You should expand the distance between yourself and other cars on the road when the rain begins to fall. Slamming on the brakes in rainy weather can cause you to lose control of your vehicle, prompting a higher potential for wrecks.

7.Time to wait

Know your limits and abilities. If you are experiencing difficulty seeing the street ahead, and different vehicles, the time has come to pull over and wait for the storm to dissipate. Pull as far off the road as possible, turn on your danger lights and get ready to wait it out.

9.Watch Out For Standing Water

Driving through standing water can cause hydroplaning to occur. Which is the point at which you lose footing and slip over the outside of the street. To abstain from hydroplaning, drive around places where water has been collected by changing lanes or securely controlling around such regions.

10.Emergency Kit in your car

Make sure you have a fully-stocked emergency kit in your car. The emergency kit should include road flares or cones, an extra charger for your phone, and a basic first aid kit.

Staying safe while driving in the rain is simple if you make a conscious effort to employ these safety precautions. Remember that diminishing your speed and turning on your lights are two of the least complex and best methods of decreasing the odds of a mishap brought about by wet climate.

Resources:

driving-tests.org

nubrakes.com

In Motion Automotiveour business is to keep neighbors and communities’ cars at DALLAS, one of our services is an oil change for all cars and all models

our services are Speedy service with a smile and competitive pricing is the start, but our goal is to get you on the road, safe and assured for reliability.